It’s no
secret to anyone who knows me that I’m an ocean girl. Indeed, it’s not a
secret, very long, to anybody. Each passing year finds me more enamored with
the coastlines of my childhood. Never do I feel happier, more contented, or
more myself than with my feet buried in the sand, and the sun on my shoulders,
and the crashing, rolling, foaming surf at my toes, and the seagulls calling in
my ears. There, like nowhere else, I am complete.
Summer and
winter vacations, as a child, were spent in southern Virginia with my
grandparents. Though it was only a couple months out of each year that I spent
there, half of my childhood memories stem from those visits and, in that way, I
feel like I was partly raised there. The life I led and the things I learned on
my grandparents’ five beautiful acres were different from anything else in my
life, then or now, and so they shaped me in ways that nothing else could. My
aunt and uncle were the first people to take me hiking in the mountains and the
Blue Ridge Mountains were my first mountain love. It wasn’t until late college
and, later, my move up to Sacramento, that I fell deeply in love with the
steep, craggy, majesty of our California mountains. I feel like all the
habitats of my life have nurtured in me an ardent love of mountain wilderness.
Here in
Kansas, we are famous for many things, including our flatness and our honorable
position at the center of the United States. The list of awesome things about
the great state of Kansas is extensive, including our prairies, our rivers, our
bird migrations, our sunflower fields, our jazz music, and our tried and true Midwestern
values. Still, we are two thousand miles from the nearest ocean. And the state’s
altitude statistics are, to someone like me, both endearing and alarming:
- The highest point in Kansas is Mount Sunflower, a site whose Wikipedia page leaves one inevitably dubious about the honesty of its title. For one thing, it’s practically in Colorado: “less than half a mile from the Colorado border and close to the lowest point in Colorado.” Wikipedia also tells us that “Mount Sunflower, while the highest point in the state in terms of elevation, is indistinguishable from the surrounding terrain.”
- The nearest mountain range to Kansas City is the Ozark Mountains, which “represent the only large area of rugged topography between the Appalachians and the Rockies.” The highest peaks in the Ozarks are just over 2,500 feet.
- In comparison, the highest peak in the Blue Ridge Monutains is Mount Mitchell, at 6,684 feet, and the highest peak in the Sierra Nevadas is Mount Whitney, at 14,494 feet.
It’s hard
not to respect Kansas for its stolid flatness. It has provided a landscape for
flora and fauna that nowhere else could sustain. It has provided America and
many places in the world with the wheat on which we are so reliant. Kansas, for
all its landlocked flatness has no shortage of breathtakingly beautiful views
and a Kansas sky is as stunning as any I’ve seen.
Still, you
can see how a girl like me, who bases her sense of direction solely on the
location of the nearest coastline, might find herself a little disoriented in a
state like this. My wild affinity for coastlines and mountain ranges on both
sides of the country had no sense of direction when my feet first hit the fly
over states, a place I had only read about before.
But Kansas
City certainly took us under its wing. To begin with, there are bits and pieces
of this town that are every bit as hipster as our Sacramento home. Our little
neighborhood on the outskirts of the city welcomed us with the true Midwestern
warmth that you hear about in stories, as did the people in our new jobs. We
loved the fountains. We loved the humidity (so long forgotten now in the middle
of gloomy winter). We loved the fireflies and the smell in the air and the lush
greenness of the trees. We discovered that, despite the lack of confidence that
Mount Sunflower instills, northeastern Kansas lays claim to some delightfully
rolling hills.
We came to
Kansas City in the middle of baseball season and the Royals – as they have been
– were looking fine. There’s a little restaurant down the street from our house
and it only took us about two trips there to feel the electricity coming out of
the bar area where a half dozen tv screens played every Royals game. We donned
Royals baseball hats and made ourselves at home. At first, maybe, that’s all we
were trying to do: make ourselves at home in a foreign land. Anytime I came
across someone who knew I was new to the area, I got asked the same question:
“So, what do you think about them Royals?” At first I’d smile and nod politely,
thinking only to myself, well, nothing,
really. But the fever caught me quickly. The neighborhoods around town had
banners waving on every possible street pole. Royal blue was everywhere. So,
one night, because I wanted a martini, I started watching. And suddenly the 95
mile per hour balls and the strike zone didn’t seem so boring
anymore…especially when Cain was stealing bases. Boy, oh boy, if Heinz Ward
made me a lifelong football fan, Cain has made me believe in baseball. Cain is
always up to something and my favorite part of watching the Royals is wondering
what he’s going to try next. I started being able to tell a ball from a strike.
And when it was going to be an amazing run even before the ball hit the ground.
I started knowing when to cheer. And I started feeling proud of our players. I
started not wanting to miss a game. And delighting in the fact that anything could happen after the seventh
inning stretch. I started appreciating the possibility of a 15 inning game and the
shoulder strength of a pitcher. Something – or maybe everything – about
watching the Royals made me finally get
the game of baseball.
But the
real thing is that somehow the World Series hysteria did make me feel at home here. Maybe I have my Pittsburgh sports
roots to thank. I know how to rally behind a sports team. And it’s something I
have in common with the Midwesterners who are my new neighbors. It’s probably
the reason I got myself stuck in a two hour traffic jam trying to catch a glimpse
of history at the victory rally. As blue and white confetti fell from the sky,
I made my way through stampedes of blue-clad Royals fans the day of the parade
– because work, yes, the entire school day, had been cancelled for the
celebration. And here’s what I learned when I finally got home:
Of an
anticipated 250,000 people, 800,000 showed up to the parade, which is twice the
number of people who actually live in Kansas City. What’s more, there were many
people – who can count how many? – who couldn’t make it in to the city – though
they tried – because there just wasn’t enough public transportation available.
Of all those 800,000 people, the police made only three arrests. (Not to hate
on my old friend San Francisco, but I have heard statistics that say that of
the one million people who went to their World Series Victory Parade last year,
there were 400 arrests.) The Kansas City Chief of Police described the crowds
at the rally as “happy and civil.” Here, it seems to me, is indication that
groupthink is merely a bunch of individuals, thinking, and not innately a beast
of inexplicable and unavoidable destruction and chaos. If the individuals who
make up a mob have “happy and civil” characters, so too, it seems, will the mob.
If we are the sum of our parts, then Kansas Citians the Tuesday after the World
Series come out about as classy as you can get.
I have been
a citizen of Kansas City for a mere five months and already, I want to call it
my own. Already am proud to be a part of it. I have heard it called a big city
(don’t laugh New Yorkers; it’s bigger than Topeka) with a small town feel,
which by all local accounts, is kind of a Midwest thing. I like how proud
people around here are of how “happy and civil” we are. One of my coworkers
moved to Kansas City from Southern California expressly because he wanted to
raise his children in this kind of environment. Many of my students – from
various countries – have said that their parents did the same thing. They say that God is in the details. And I
believe that (perhaps synonymously) goodness is too. The best and truest people
that I know are undemonstrative in their goodness, positively exacting change
not in any grandiose way – as evil often presents itself – but by building many
small, good things on top of each other until they are noticeable and strong.
Goodness in a casserole for a sick neighbor. Goodness in a compost pile.
Goodness in a child raised in love and strength of character. Goodness in a
family farm. In a warm fire on a cold night. In a warm meal for a hungry child
or a homeless stranger. In a town rallying behind a baseball team. Pride.
Patriotism. Self-worth. Integrity. These qualities seem unaccidently
interwoven. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of that?
I’ve
written before about the joys of feeling companionship in aloneness. Watching
the World Series at the restaurant down the street, felt, to me, like another
side of that same die: feeling companionship in a room full of complete
strangers. Feeling safe. Which could sort of describe what it’s like to land in
the Midwest for the first time.
Right now,
looking out at the snow, beautifully but icily dusting my neighborhood, I’d be
lying if I didn’t admit that the thing I want most is to be salty, sun-kissed
in the icy sea waters of home. And I’m sure, if I could plop myself down on a
mountaintop somewhere and look out over the prairies of this middle state, I’d
see everything from a much better perspective. Seas and mountains speak my
language, there’s no doubt. But I saw a bald eagle for the first time at
Kaw Point the other day. And I’m learning, slowly, but surely, about the native
plants and where exactly it is that I can tramp around in the Kansas
wilderness. And I have my eye out for a 60,000 acre horse property in Louisburg
or Eudora. And I love baseball now.
Kansas City
has been genuinely welcoming these past months, as though it cares about making
a good impression, and has the substance to back it up. Not because of its
baseball team, per se, but because of its soul, and its steadfastness, and its
competence, and its people, and their values. Because it’s not in a rush and
not self-conscious about being too kind or too proud. Because it loves itself
and it loves others. Because it doesn’t make strangers of strangers.
I am away
from home and the places my heart knows best, but in this city, I have found warmth
and companionship, nonetheless. This last day of the year finds me enthused
about the Kansas year ahead of me. There are secrets here to be learned.
Secrets that, though foreign to me right now, must be as delightful as the
secrets the Pacific Ocean whispers when you sit bundled on her shore on a spring
evening. Secrets Brewster Higley must have known when he wrote, “Oh, give me a
home where the buffalo roam / … / I love these wild flowers in this bright land
of our; / I love, too, the curlew’s wild scream.” I am beginning to get it. Happy
New Year, Kansas. Happy New Year home and the many homes I’ve seemed to acquire
along the way. Here’s to a new year rich with the secrets of the Heartland and
a new home away from home.
*“Somehow, the
prairie dust gets in your blood, and it flows through your veins until it
becomes a part of you. The vast stretches of empty fields, the flat horizons of
treeless plains. The simplicity of the people—good, earnest people. The way
they talk and the way they live. The lack of occurrence, lack of attention,
lack of everything. All that—it’s etched into your soul and it colors the way
you see everything and it becomes a part of you. Eventually, Ms. Harper, when
you leave, everything you experience outside of Kansas will be measured against
all you know here. And none of it will make any sense.” -P.S. Baber Cassie Draws the Universe
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